Beautiful Vardzia, Georgia… This unique rock-cut monastery complex is located in the south-west of the country in the Kura River Valley.
The cave city of Vardzia has not been preserved as it was conceived by its creators in the XII century, but, undoubtedly, this place has its own unique charm. And, going deeper and deeper into this stone “termite garden”, it is impossible not to be surprised at the skill and patience of medieval builders.
History of the mysterious Vardzia
Vardzia (or Vardzia) is a cave city that was hollowed out of light tuff rocks. Its mother is Mount Erusheti. The city is located at an altitude of 1300 m above sea level. The grandiose project began nine centuries ago, during the reign of Tsar George III, and then his heiress, better known among us as Queen Tamara. Such backbreaking work was not just a whim: the city was supposed to become a refuge in case of enemy attacks. The rocky landscape played into the hands of the Georgians: the fortress became impregnable to the enemy. Twenty thousand people could have taken refuge in the caves of Vardzia.
In addition to cells where it was possible to live, the builders also provided storage rooms, book storehouses, chapels, a hospital, and wine cellars. The Queen built the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. However, already in the XIII century (after about a hundred years), an earthquake destroyed part of the mountain range covering the city, and since then the stone labyrinths of Vardzia have been on the surface. Hiding here became impossible.
But the trouble didn’t end there. This place is very much loved by various enemies. Robbers came here every now and then, attacking civilians. In the middle of the XVI century, a fire broke out in Vardzia, which caused a strong lesson to the architectural complex. Oddly enough, the fire also had its own advantage: soot, which tightly clung to the murals and frescoes, helped to preserve them in almost unchanged form.
A cave town in Georgia, Vardzia, is now a functioning monastery. Today, Vardzia is located near the border of Georgia, and in ancient times it was the heart of the country, where a large transport artery ran. When Georgia was invaded by the Ottoman Empire, life there stopped. They say that the Turks even burned monks right in the temple. Only two hundred years later, Russian soldiers liberated the city, and the monastery again breathed deeply.
Where is Vardzia and how to get here?
Vardzia is a child of the mountains. It will take quite a long time to get here from the nearest large cities. The most convenient way to get here is by minibus from the southern city of Akhaltsikhe.
Buses depart from Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia 4 times a day: first at 10: 30, then at 12: 20, 16: 00 and last at 17: 30. It is best to take the first flight, but it is also the most popular one-there are many people who want to visit cave monasteries – so come to the minibus in advance and take a seat. In addition, the schedule may change, and buses may be delayed. Please check all the details at the bus station before traveling. The ticket costs 6-8 GEL, and you will spend about an hour and a half on the road. The last bus in the opposite direction departs at 15: 00.
Vardzia-how to get there on your own from Tbilisi?
From the capital of Georgia, it is more difficult to get to the cave city, because the distance between them is decent, more than two hundred kilometers. Taxi drivers will be happy to give you a ride, but it will not be cheap, you will have to fork out up to 350 GEL.
There are no direct bus services from Tbilisi to Vardzia. It is better to get to the above-mentioned Akhaltsikhe and from there go to your destination by minibus. From the capital, buses depart from the bus station at Didube Metro Station as they fill up.
There is also a route from Rustavi to Vardzia. Its route passes through the capital of Georgia, but you should not count on it especially, because the driver turns off to Tbilisi only if there are empty seats. And they often don’t happen.
Please note! What to see in Tbilisi is a must find out on this page
How to get from Borjomi to Vardzia?
Minibuses do not go straight (again, only from Akhaltsikhe), but there is a good road. A rental car can be easily reached. First – along the Borjomi Gorge, where once majestic fortresses are located on picturesque cliffs, now mostly victims of destruction. Then the landscape changes, becoming more desolate. The naked mountains of Georgia do not hesitate to show all their beauty.
Upon arrival in Vardzia, you can easily find parking spaces and cafes serving Georgian cuisine. By the way, if you are planning a tour in the evening, then keep in mind that the last minibus departs from Vardzia at 3 pm. You’ll have to hitchhike or take a taxi back. There is a guesthouse nearby. Those who can live without amenities are allowed to put up a tent at the foot.
Keep in mind that the schedule of minibuses and buses in Georgia often changes, so it is better to check it in advance at the bus station — by phone or on the spot.
What should I see?
Having conquered the long road, you can see the entrance to the monastery. In the depths, monastic cells are open to tourists, not all of them, only some. Behind the chapel, the narrow corridors of the cave complex wind through. The passageways are on different levels, and there are original stone stairs between the drops. Just imagine: thirteen floors that are connected to each other by an intricate system of passageways and corridors.
Now six priests live in the monastery of Vardzia, they are accompanied by a cat. The cells look monotonous, but in addition to them there are rooms with stone benches, and storerooms with various recesses. Viewing platforms with benches offer a magnificent view of the mountain landscapes: the quiet Kura River, the indifferent giant rocks, the Tmogvi fortress. If you look closely, you can see the border of Georgia with Turkey. You can go to the pools with sulfuric water.
The main pearl of Vardzia, photos confirm this, is the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. It is located in the heart of the cliff, you can go to it through several corridors. The altar and walls of the temple are decorated with ancient frescoes. All passages inside the rock are illuminated. At the exit there is a spring, you can drink and collect water.
Schedule and prices
In summer, more opportunities are open to tourists. In winter, many parts of the monastery are closed, possibly because it can be dangerous to visit them in cold weather and icy conditions. In general, the ancient city of Georgia is open all year round: from 10 to 18 hours in summer and from 10 to 17 in winter.
- You will have to pay GEL 15 for the entrance ticket. Groups are given discounts if there are more than ten people, each will give only two lari.
- There is a lot to see, so the average walk takes three hours, or even more.
- There is also a guide on site, you can order his services at the entrance, it costs 45 GEL.
And this is interesting!
There is a legend about the name of the wonder city of Georgia. As a child, Queen Tamara walked through the caves with her uncle and got a little lost. The girl shouted: “Ak var, dziya!”, which means”I’m here, uncle!” in Georgian. Without much ado, her dad gave the cave city a proper name.
There is another interesting story, with a touch of mysticism. When Vardzia was just beginning to be built, the workers faced a big problem. Initially, it was planned to start work on another rock, but the stone was stubborn. Sometimes it didn’t want to give in, sometimes it crumbled unnecessarily. In general, it did not go well. Tired builders left all the tools at the mountain in the evening and went to bed.
In the morning, when they came back to the rock, there were no tools in place. They were found untouched near a nearby mountain. The next day it all happened again, and then people realized that this was a sign. The work was moved to the new rock, which is now known as Vardzia.
Vardzia, Georgia is a truly unique and unique place. It may not be as photogenic as sunny beaches with coconut trees, but it shares its own story with you. A living legend. After visiting here, you will never forget these endless mysterious corridors, where the ghost of the beautiful Tamara still seems to roam…
Useful tips
- On the territory of the cave complex there are fountains with drinking water, so do not worry if you forgot to take it with you.
- At the monastery, you should dress appropriately: your shoulders and knees should be covered.
- Wear comfortable shoes and make sure to wear a headdress-it can be very, very hot in this part of Georgia in the summer.
- If you plan to go to Vardzia by public transport, take the first flight, otherwise you risk not having time to see everything or miss the last bus going to Akhaltsikhe at 15: 00. You can also spend the night in one of the hotels near the caves.
