Mount Matterhorn is one of the most recognizable peaks in the world. If you have never been lucky enough to visit the Swiss-Italian border, you will still easily recognize the characteristic shape of the mountain in the form of a four-sided pyramid. The Matterhorn peak annually attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists who come just to see it and about 3 thousand climbers who want to conquer the peak. However, the Matterhorn mountain in Switzerland is not only beautiful, but also dangerous. People regularly die here, so you need to carefully prepare and evaluate your strength before traveling. In any case, no traveler will be left disappointed.
General information
Let’s start with the information-where the Matterhorn Mountain is located. The attraction is located in the Penine Alps and passes between two states – Switzerland and Italy. The slope to the south is located on Italian territory, the other three sides belong to Switzerland.
The Italian name of the mountain – Monte Cervino-comes from the French Mons Servinus and means “forest mountain”, and from the German language the name “Matterhorn” translates as ” meadow “(Matte) and “peak” (Horn)
Interesting fact! The peak is located at a distance from other peaks of the Alps, which makes it possible to see the mountain and feel its magnetism.
The height of the Matterhorn is almost 4.48 km (4,478 m, to be exact). The exterior appeal hides steep slopes and rockiness. That is why for a long time the attraction in Switzerland was not conquered by mountaineers.
In the mountain profile, two peaks are clearly visible, located one hundred meters from each other. The state border runs directly between the vertexes.Accordingly, one is called Italian, and the second is called Swiss.
Useful to know! The height of the Italian peak is only 1 m lower than the Swiss one.
A mountain in the Alps is notable for its strict geometric proportions. Externally, it resembles a pyramid of irregular shape, the faces of which are located in the directions of the cardinal directions.
In the cold season, the mountain is completely covered with glaciers and snow. However, in summer, the sun melts the snow, a small amount remains only on the eastern and north-eastern sides.
Important to know! The mountain in the Alps is characterized by steep slopes, which is why rockfalls and avalanches often occur here.
Practical information
Tourists stop in one of the villages:
- in Switzerland-the town of Zermatt;
- on the territory of Italy-the settlement of Bray-Cervinia.
The Teodul Pass separates the villages. The ski slopes are laid at an altitude of 4 km, but real extreme athletes and professionals prefer to climb higher in the Alps.
Photo: Matterhorn-a mountain in the Alps.
Leikerbad-spa with thermal springs in the Swiss Alps
Historical facts
At the foot of the Matterhorn in the Alps, the first people settled during the Roman Empire. In the first century BC, Theodulus Pass was used for trade between the north and south of Europe.
Interesting to know! Ancient tribes did not dare to settle on the slopes, because they believed that this is the habitat of the devil. Most likely, the belief arose because of the frightening appearance of the mountain and frequent avalanches.
In the 19th century, a movement of like-minded people appeared in England who wanted to conquer the most dangerous slopes. Groups of climbers went to all the slopes of the Alps, but even Mont Blanc was conquered by people faster than the top of the Matterhorn. Those who wanted to reach the peak gathered at the foot many times, but did not dare to climb.
Matterhorn Summit ascent
Given the geographical location of the mountain – in Switzerland and Italy-there are two ways to travel – from the territory of each of the states.
Due to its unusual shape – almost an equilateral pyramid – the mountain has been attracting mountaineers for several centuries and has a rich history with unusual and tragic facts. A walking route on the slopes requires:
- skills of working with a rope;
- skills of movement on rocky terrain;
- skills to organize insurance;
- compliance with safety regulations.
Before climbing, you must complete a training course, and use the help of a guide on the way.
It is important! From the Swiss side, the path is as simple as possible, cables are hung in the most dangerous places, insurance is organized, huts are equipped for recreation, if bad weather catches tourists during the ascent, you can wait it out in an emergency shelter.
The height of the mountain in the Alps is about 4.48 km, so the question of preparing for the Matterhorn summit in Switzerland should be worked out in advance and make sure that you have enough strength and endurance for this difficult test. You should also pay attention to acclimatization in the mountains. In good weather, dozens of tourists can be found on narrow sections of the climbing routes, so guides recommend using maximum caution and attention.
What to be wary of
The main danger of the Matterhorn mountain in Switzerland is unpredictable weather. The clouds here are low, shrouding the peaks, forming a steady thick fog. Sometimes, at a distance of one meter, you can’t see anything. The weather can change within a quarter of an hour. In addition to fog, mountain climbers face storms and snowfalls. Given the speed with which the weather changes, finding shelter from the weather is very difficult.
The greatest danger in the Alps is represented by rockfalls. In some cases, they are provoked by tourists, and sometimes the stones are torn off under the weight of glaciers. Experts call this fact amazing-despite numerous avalanches and stone collapses, the mountain has not changed its appearance for centuries.
What will be required for the ascent
- A roomy backpack with a volume of 40 to 60 liters.
- The mat is at least 12 mm thick.
- A sleeping bag that will be comfortable to spend the night in at a temperature of +10 degrees.
- Special clothing and footwear: down vest, fleece jacket, storm jacket, storm or trekking pants, thermal underwear set, mountaineering boots. If the climb is planned in the summer, it is recommended to take a change of underwear, a spare T-shirt and shorts. You will also need a hat, buff, socks, and gloves.
- Glasses or a mask with UV protection (at least 3 factors).
- Trekking poles will help protect your knees from injury.
- Head lamp.
- Sunscreen (factor at least 50), hygienic lipstick.
- Dishes – plate, spoon, mug, knife.
- Hygiene supplies – toothpaste and brush, soap, towel, comb, and other necessary items.
- First aid kit: preparations are selected individually, but be sure to take a bactericidal patch.
- Mountaineering accessories-cats, ice axe, helmet, insurance, carbines.
- Thermos of hot tea.
- Identity documents.
If desired, you can take a camera or video camera.
Climbing history
The Alps have always attracted travelers, and today all the slopes have been conquered by man, but the Matterhorn mountain in Switzerland was the last on this list. Novice climbers have long experienced a superstitious fear of a mountain in the Alps.
- The first attempts to reach the mountain peak in Switzerland were made in 1857, but they were all unsuccessful.
- In 1861, Edward Whymper, an artist from England, tried to reach the top. He tried to climb the southern slope of the mountain, accompanied by a Swiss guide Jean-Antoine Carrel and his uncle. Their journey was fruitless.
- A year later, Whymper again tried to climb over the ridge in Italy. He overcame almost 4 km of altitude, but seriously injured his leg. That same summer, Tyndall and Bennen climbed most of the mountain in Switzerland, stopping at the main shoulder, which today is known as Tyndall’s Peak. However, deep gorges on the way stopped the climbers.
- In 1863, Whymper again tried to climb the Matterhorn in the Alps, but a storm caught up with him and forced him to return.
First successful ascent
A significant event was recorded in 1865, when Whymper developed and implemented a new plan for climbing the southern slope of the mountain. An attempt to climb to the peak on June 21 was unsuccessful – the path was blocked by a strong rockfall. Another attempt – on July 14-was crowned with success, but was overshadowed by the death of rock climbers.
Climbing in Switzerland was done by: Edward Whymper, Scot Lord Francis Douchelas, Charles Hudson, Robert Douglas Hadow, Father Peter Togwalders, his son and Michel Crozat.
The group began climbing the Hernley slope, Whymper noted in his notes that the path was easier than the route on the Italian slope. However, the mountain became steeper and more dangerous as they advanced towards the top. Edward Whymper and Michel Croz were the first to reach the goal. A tragic accident happened when the group was descending – Hadow, Croz, Hudson and Douglas fell and crashed. Only three climbers were buried, as Douglas ‘ body was not found on the glacier. The bodies of the other three men are buried in Zermatt.
Who else managed the ascent:
- July 1865-Jean-Antoine Carrel;
- in 1871-Lucy Walker;
- August 1931-Franz Schmid and Tony Schmid.
Climb to the top today
Today, the Matterhorn peak in the Alps has routes of various levels of difficulty, but all of them are designed for trained climbers who are familiar with the climbing technique. It is possible to climb at any time of the year, but it will not be an easy walk.
In the warmer months, it is best to climb the Hernley Ridge, the route has a difficulty rating of AD. Safety ropes are installed throughout the entire ascent. From Zermatt to Lake Schwarzsee. From here you will have to walk to the Hernley hut, where climbers spend the night. The next day, the further journey should start no later than 3-30 in the morning, only in this case you can manage to go down before dusk.
Useful to know! If there is an emergency on the road, the Solvay Hut is available for tourists.
Other routes:
- Lion’s Ridge-difficulty AD;
- Cmutt Ridge-difficulty D;
- northern part of the mountain – in the Alps, this part is considered the most difficult and has a TD+difficulty.
Statistics: 70% of climbers make the ascent on the Hernley route, 25% – on the Lyon ridge. Other routes account for no more than 5% of all ascents.
Tragic cases
Despite the fact that safety ladders are laid along the entire route, climbers die on the Matterhorn every year. Main reasons:
- unpreparedness of tourists;
- choosing a complex route;
- large influx of people willing to climb the peak;
- natural disasters – glaciers converging and rockfalls.
Statistics! Between 1981 and 2012, 223 climbers died on the slopes of the Matterhorn, 203 of them fell and crashed. In total, the mountain claimed the lives of more than 500 people. This peak is officially recognized as the deadliest among the peaks in the Alps.
Interesting facts
- The famous Matterhorn peak is located in the Swiss Alps and is characterized by a continental climate. The air temperature changes as you move up the slopes, with average temperatures of -1 degree in winter and +18 degrees in summer.
- The Matterhorn mountain is a symbol of Switzerland, is the prototype of the famous Swiss chocolate, it is produced in the form of two pyramids.
- Hermann Perrin, the owner of a hotel in Zermatt and a mountaineer guide, promised during his lifetime that he would climb the summit 150 times. Perrin died at the age of 68 and, unfortunately, did not have time to conquer the mountain only 8 times.
- Zermatt is an eco-friendly city, there are no cars here, you can get to the city from the station by horse-drawn carriage or by electric car. How to get to the resort itself from Zurich and Geneva is described on this page.
- Bray-Cervinia is one of the favorite resorts of Italian youth.
- Attractions in Zermatt – mountaineering Museum, mountaineer cemetery, cogwheel railway. The Klein Matterhorn has a unique glacier cave with a beautiful ice hall.
Now you know where the Matherhorn peak is located, how to organize a trip and climb to the cherished goal. This trip is sure to be one of the most memorable and emotionally intense in your life.
