Don’t give in to Syros ‘ first impression. From the ferry, the island looks industrial, but the further away from the Neoryo shipyard, the better. In fact, tourism here is a relatively new phenomenon, so Syros is considered one of the most” Greek ” islands of the archipelago, while it is in the first place in the Cyclades in terms of population. And after its more “touristy” neighbors, Syros is able to bring freshness to your travel experiences. Of course, foreigners also come here – and many live permanently, but the beaches are not too developed by the tourist industry, and it is felt that people here value the privacy of their lives.
Port city of Ermoupolis on the island of Syros
The main town and port of Ermoupolis Island is one of the most amazing in the Cyclades. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city is rich in elegant mansions that rise majestically above the bustling waterfront with many cafes. The city was founded during the War of Independence by refugees from Psara and Chios, and in the 19th century Ermoupolis grew in importance, becoming for a time the main port of new Greece.
Although Piraeus long ago took away the first place from Ermoupolis and was far ahead of it, the capital of Syros still remains the largest city in the Cyclades and the center of the entire archipelago. In the Middle Ages, the island was dominated by Catholics, but the influx of refugees during the War of Independence led to the emergence of two separate communities, which are now roughly equal in size and live on two hills rising out of the sea. Nevertheless, communities even celebrate holidays together that are significant only for one of them, and as a result, there is an expressive mixture of cultures that gives the island its own identity.
- Arrival and accommodation in Ermoupolis
Syros is a major crossroads of ferry routes, and most people arriving by sea are destined to meet crowds of locals offering rooms. There are no buses from the airport to the city, so you will have to order a transfer (taxi). On the waterfront, several travel agencies sell ship tickets, and there is also a bus station, tourist police, and banks. From several points of motorcycle rental, you should recommend “Apollon” on Andipara in the block behind the embankment. The only Internet cafe in the city is “in Spot” on Akti Papagu 4, closer to the marina.
The agency” Team Work ” on the embankment provides useful information and helps you find an overnight stay. In summer, you can contact one of the special kiosks on the same embankment for information about accommodation. The following establishments are open all year round, unless otherwise agreed.
1). Dream Hotel-Decent, though no frills rooms, some with balconies. The hotel is run by a charming family, and the waterfront is just around the corner. Location: u Naksu;
2). Hotel Hermes is a nice hotel in a prime location, overlooking the port. All rooms have a sea view and a very popular hotel restaurant facing the sea. Location: Platia Canari;
3). Pension Kastro Rooms-Spacious rooms in a beautiful old mansion near the main square, with a common kitchen for all guests. If you’re lucky, the host-his name is Markos-will introduce you to traditional Greek music. Location: Kalomenopoulou 12;
4). Sea Colors Apartments (orders through the agency “TeamWork” – – Traditional apartments for 2-6 guests. Nearby is the quiet beach of Agios Nikolaos, and the main platia is a 5-minute walk away. Location: Athinas;
5). Syrou Melathron Hotel is a regal hotel in a restored 19th-century mansion in a quiet part of the city. There are suites and spacious rooms, some with sea views. Location: Babayotu.
- Ermoupolis city attractions
Ermoupolis itself deserves at least a two-day tour: its majestic buildings remind you of the time when the city was the country’s largest port. The long central platiya Miauli is named after the admiral who distinguished himself during the War of Independence, and is decorated with his statue. In the evenings, the square is filled with people: adults walk decorously in front of the arcades, and children jump on mechanical animals. Climbing the stairs to the left of the town Hall, you will enter the small Archaeological Museum, whose three halls are filled with finds from the islands of Syros, Paros and Amorgos.
Another staircase, to the left of the clock tower, climbs the Vrondado hill, where the population is Orthodox. This hill is crowned by the beautiful Anastasis Church, offering magnificent views of Tinos and Mykonos. If the church is closed, ask for the keys at the rectory. To the right and above the square, you’ll find the Teatro Apollo, a replica of Milan’s La Scala Opera, which is now only an occasional performance. Even higher is the beautiful Orthodox Church of Agios Nikolaos, and beyond it to the right is the Vaporia area, where the island’s richest shipowners, merchants and bankers preferred to build their mansions.
A higher hill to the left is occupied by the fascinating medieval area of Ano Syros, where many Catholic churches are located down from the Cathedral of St. George. To get to this part of the city, it will take about 45 minutes of difficult ascent along Omir, which will then turn into Karga Street (buses from the bus station rarely run). Along the way, you will pass by Orthodox and Catholic cemeteries: on the first one there are many magnificent mausoleums of famous ship owners, on the second one there are more modest tombstones, but there are many inscriptions in French and Italian (you can halve the walking time by cutting a corner and taking part of the route along the street – stairs of Andrea Carga).
Cathedral of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker
Along the way, you’ll enjoy the city’s views far below, and as you approach Hanaud-Syros, you’ll see the Capuchin monastery of Saint-Jean (Saint John), founded in 1535 as an almshouse for the poor. It is worth seeing exhibitions of works by local craftsmen and church utensils at the Markos Vamvakaris Museum and the Byzantine Museum connected to the monastery. Heading west from Ermoupolis, on the bus route from the ferry pier to Kini, you will reach the Museum of Industry, which traces the history of shipbuilding, mining and many other industries that exist on the island: the exhibits are interestingly selected and provided with detailed explanations.
- Food and nightlife in Ermoupolis
In addition to a large number of excellent restaurants, the embankment is home to many shops that sell the famous Turkish delicacies lukumya, nougat madolata and pies stuffed with halva (halvadopita).
1). Archontamki tis Maritsas Tavern is a very popular rural-style tavern, located in an alley behind the port. Local dishes are served, including pot mushrooms and ham baked in cheese. Location: a block east of Main platia;
2). Daidadi – Homemade Italian-style ice cream, probably the best in the Cyclades. Location: Platia Paragu;
3). Lilis Tavern-A famous tavern much loved by locals, frequented by Markos Vamvakaris at one time. Location: Ano Syros;
4). Retro Tavern-An excellent quality tavern near the main platia offers Greek cuisine with decent vegetarian dishes. Bouzouki music is played almost every night. Location: Vorotopoulou;
5). Stin Ithaki Tavern – A welcoming tavern on a small, bougainvillea-covered street that serves traditional local dishes such as fried tomatoes, as well as good souvlaki. Location: Stefanou;
6). Yiannena Esthatorio Bistro is a popular waterside restaurant with friendly staff. Very similar to a French bistro. The establishment offers magnificent seafood and typical Greek dishes. Location: Platia Canari.
- Syros Island Nightlife options
Syros is proud of his contribution to the development of the rebetic genre. The great Bouzouki maestro Marcos Vamvakaris became famous on this island, and in Ano Syros one of the squares is named after him, where there is a museum dedicated to him, which opens only occasionally. Along with the usual disco clubs, there are now also taverns-clubs with music on weekends. Bouzouki bars (often expensive) are also scattered around the island, usually near coastal resorts (see advertising posters and local press for details). Lively bars compete on the embankment: everyone wants to be known as the coolest and most fashionable, although it is difficult to find the differences between them.
1). The Agora establishment is a pleasant bar and club with a garden. The audience chills to a motley mix of different ethnic music. Location: Platia Miauli;
2). Bitter and Sweet Club – A small cozy club in the old port authority building. In summer, it is open seven days a week, and a live DJ entertains the well-dressed audience with a variety of good music. Location: on the seafront of za Platia Canari;
3). Bizanas restaurant-A cavernous game room right on the square. It is also open during the day – for those who need Internet access. Location: Platia Miauli;
4). Bar Bohnme del Mar – This trendy bar offers a variety of music, from reggae to jazz. And in the afternoon it’s very nice to have a cup of coffee here. Location: on the embankment;
5). Syrou Casino – A large casino is open until 6 o’clock. It is suitable for those who have a lot of money, to go there, you need to dress well. Location: opposite the ferry pier;
6). Club Vento-A huge dance club 3 kilometers from the city starts guests with trance and European hits and at 4: 00 in the morning. It is better to take a taxi. Location: on the road to the airport.
Southern part of Syros Island
In summer, buses take the main road south (to Galissas, Finikas, Megas Gialos and Vari) every hour and run until late. The first stop on the way is Galissas, an agricultural village, but since the mid – 1980s, backpacker travelers have been drawn to the best camping site on the island, Two Hearts. In addition to the facilities, the campsite sends mini buses to almost all incoming ships. There are many rooms for rent in the village, so you can find a better option, and among the few hotels the cheapest are Semiramis and excellent Francoise, and Benois is good for prices and quality.
There are many places to eat: the fish tavern To Iliovasilema behind the Benois Hotel is quite acceptable, and Cavos-part of the luxury Dolphin Bay Hotel complex-offers impressive views of the bay. Live Greek music is good to listen to in Argo. The identity of Galissas is damaged by the beer hall, where “heavy metal” rumbles, and expensive local needlework shops. However, the natives are still hospitable, and if you are looking for privacy, rent a scooter or walk (10 minutes) past the cape to the nude beach of Armeos, where there is clear spring water. Keep in mind that during low season, bus schedules and routes change in unpredictable ways, and to be sure to leave, wait for the bus on the highway, and not at the bottom of the beach.
Pleasant walking distance (40 minutes) or a 10-minute bus ride south from Galissas and you’re in the more standard resort of Phinikas, which claims a very long history: they say that the first settlers on this site were Phoenicians (although the name may have come from the word Phinikas, which means “palm tree” in Greek). The beach is narrow and rocky, close to the road, but there are tamarisk trees growing along the edge. The best of the hotels is Cyclades, with an acceptable restaurant at the entrance, and Amaryllis rooms are slightly cheaper. The Barbalias fish tavern on the seafront is recommended, while Maistrali Marine has internet access at the bus stop.
Neighboring Posidonia (or Dellagracia), separated from Phoenix by a tiny promontory, is a more pleasant place: there are fancifully decorated mansions and a bright blue church on the edge of the village. Don’t be too lazy to walk south (10 minutes), past the yacht club and the patrol boat guarding it, and you will be rewarded with the sandy beach of Agathopes with an island right on the shore. The road leading south from this beach ends at Comito – where there is almost nothing but a rocky beach and an olive grove in front of it. You can spend the night near Posidonia either in the flashy Possidonion hotel on the waterfront, or rent a no-frills room away from the sea. The Meltemi Tavern on the road to Agathopes serves good seafood dishes.
Beyond Posidonia, the highway turns east toward the resort of Megas Gialos, nestled against a mountainside with brightly painted houses. The narrow, long beach is lined with trees, and there is also a water bike rental service. Vari is somewhat more like a city, there is even a small fishing fleet. The beach is clearly dominated by young people. The taverns and rooms for rent are right above the shore, but this bay is the most sheltered and sheltered from the winds on the entire island, as you remember when the meltemi rises. The neighboring bay of Akhladi is much more pleasant, there are more families vacationing here.
Northern part of Syros Island
Closer to Ermoupolis, a few kilometers north of Galissas (15 minutes by bus; in summer there are flights once an hour) – the coastal village of Kini with a double beach is located. A good accommodation option is the Sunset Hotel, under which there is a wonderful Zalounis tavern. Delphini, just to the north, also has a nice pebble beach, although the path leading to it looks a little scary. In other places, there are many potholes, especially further north, where the land is drier and the terrain is more rugged, and the villages are not enough. The highway from Ano Syros to the north is convenient for a motorcycle, if, of course, you do not mind the incessant ascents and descents. On the way, in the village of Mitikas, you can eat at a decent roadside tavern.
Then, after a few kilometers, the road forks: turning left and then left again, you will come to the tiny village of Siringas, near which there is a curious cave. The path will take you directly to Kambos, where there is a trail to Llia Beach. Turning right at the fork, you will eventually descend to the northeast coast and the ancient cemetery of Haladriani. Most of the archaeological objects found here during the excavations carried out in the XIX century are now located in Athens, although until now one settlement remains unearthed. On the hill of Kastri, to the north, the ruins of one of the oldest fortified villages in the Cyclades, built in the III millennium BC, have survived.