The Douro River begins in Spain, crosses the northern part of Portugal and flows into the Atlantic Ocean in Porto. Its valley has become famous for its landscapes: endless multi-level terraces of vineyards on high hills.
You can see these beauties with your own eyes by buying a tour to Portugal and coming here from May to October, when there are leaves on the grape bushes. But the best time is September-October. The Douro hills in the first half of autumn are colorful: yellow, orange, red, burgundy. You can not only enjoy the views and listen to the history of winemaking in the region, but also take part in the grape harvest and wine making. And the hills themselves in September and October are very colorful: yellow, orange, red, burgundy.
In the city of Porto, or rather in Vila Nova de Gaia, which is on the other side of the bridge of Luis I, there are cellars with the famous Portuguese port wine. This drink is produced in the Alto Douro region. It is one of the oldest wine producing regions in the world.
Cruise ships run from the northern capital to the Douro Valley from April to October. The price of the trip usually includes a visit to wineries with tastings. Tourists are also brought back to the Port by boat or by train (I recommend this option), but more often by bus. I also prepared a map for an independent trip to the Douro Valley with stops in its best locations.
Peso da Régua
You should start exploring the best wine region in Portugal from a place that has played a leading role in the production and marketing of port wine. From the hills closest to the Pesu da Regua, barrels of wine were transported by Rabelu boats to Vila Nova de Gaia. There it was kept in basements. And from where they were then delivered to the UK and other countries by ship.
Peso da Regua has dozens of wineries, and if you count the tiny family wineries, maybe hundreds. Many of them are open to tourists. They will tell you how to make your own drinks and give you a taste of them. Among the vineyards of some kintes, there are guest houses. But to have a more extensive understanding of the wine-making traditions of the region, I recommend visiting the Douro Museum (Museu do Douro). Check out the options and time of its visit on the site in advance.
Then you can go down to the pier (Cais da Régua), where cruise liners arrive from Porto. And then along the embankment or along a parallel street past the Church of the House of Mercy (Igreja da Santa Casa da Misericórdia) walk to the railway station (Estação da Régua). All points are on the map. Next to the station, an old barn was converted into wine bars — it turned out great.
On the metal pedestrian bridge (Ponte da Régua), spanning the Douro, where you can not turn your head, there are spectacular views everywhere! On the hills there are huge signs of the most famous brands of Portuguese port wine. Sandeman bottle figurine, Cálem logo, Porto Cruz-these factories grow grapes on the local slopes for their drinks.
If you are here for lunch or dinner (in Portugal they are on schedule), on the other side of the river there is a restaurant Torrão with a beautiful view of the Douro and Pesa da Regua.
Do you want to look down on the city and the valley? The guide has a section with the most beautiful viewpoints. Near Regua, these are Miradouro de Santo António and Miradouro São Leonardo de Galafura.
Pinhão
You can go from Regua to Pinyau, or Pinyan in Russian, by train. Railway-the line runs along the very bank — sometimes it seems that you can wet your feet in the river. If you go by car, you will find a fantastic route N222, laid out on the other side of the Douro.
You can start exploring the city from the train station (Estação Ferroviária do Pinhão). It is decorated with hand-painted tiles that tell the story of port wine’s journey: from the grape harvest to the storage of barrels in the cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia.
Then head to the marina (Cais do Pinhão). If you have free time, I highly recommend taking a one-hour or two-hour river cruise on the traditional rabelu boat, which was once used to transport wine barrels to the Port.
Are you hungry? Stop by the Veladouro restaurant, located just off the seafront. Haven’t you worked up an appetite yet? Continue along the river and discover that the Pinyau flows into the Douro, after which the town was named.
When you come to the bridge of the Roman Empire (Ponte rodoviária sobre o rio Pinhão), you will see steps on the right — go up them and you can return to the railway station along the street where you will meet souvenir shops. Just beyond the train station is the Cardanho dos Presuntos bar — where you can enjoy a glass of Porto tonic.
The Pinyan area is full of quintas and wineries — you can spend the night in one of them. But before that, be sure to drive up to the observation deck of Casal de Loivos (Miradouro Casal De Loivos). It offers a panoramic view of the endless hills with vineyards, the Douro River and the town of Pinhau. I was very impressed with the view.
São João da Pesqueira
Viewpoints in this village are top-end. From Miradouro de Santa Barbara For the first time, I saw a train passing along the Douro River greet a passing cruise ship, squeaking with delight like a child.
At the metal bridge, Ferradosa railway station is located, from which you can go to Pinhau. Near the pier where cruise liners stop (Cais de São Xisto). And above it is the ancient shale village of São Xisto
The Miradouro de São Salvador do Mundo viewpoint offers a magnificent view of the Douro, which forms a crossroads here.
If you walk even higher — to the chapel of Senhora da Graça (Capela da Senhora da Graça), you can also see the Valeira Dam (Barragem do Valeira), the water difference in which cruises have to overcome through a special lock.
From the site of Senhora de Lourdes (Miradouro Nossa Sra. De Lurdes) can be seen as trains emerge from a small tunnel in the rock and stop at the railway station a little further away. By the way, before the ascent to the Church of Our Lady of Lourdes, a picnic area was equipped. But we laid out a clearing right on the observation deck on a bench — you can’t think of a better location for lunch.
If you don’t have food with you, you can eat in the village of San João da Pesceira. And at the same time walk through its historical center. In the main square stands an 18th-century chapel with a beautiful Baroque facade (Torre do Relógio).
Then go to the Kabu house, which is decorated with the coats of arms of a rich fishing family. The name of the town came just from the word fishing (pesqueira-means ” to catch fish”). There is a small, lovely garden (Jardim do Cabo) next to the palace. And on the square across the street, a big wine festival is held in early September. For a couple of euros, you buy a glass and taste it until you drop. If you are here at any other time, visit the Museu do Vinho de São João da Pesqueira and taste local drinks there. And I also marked a factory on the map, whose wines I consider the best. Five-liter bottles of Vale de Messes or Isento in bottles — this is not found in regular stores.
Lamego
This city is close to Peso da Regua, but I decided to tell you about it a little later, in case you have a little more time to travel around the region.
Lamego is called the cultural capital of the Douro Valley, although it is more correct to say — the architectural one. The main attraction is the Church of Our Lady of Healing (Santuário de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios), which rises majestically above the city. From a distance, the temple resembles Bom Jesus in Braga. But, as it seems to me, it is even richer decorated. A cascade of 686 steps leads up to the sanctuary, with fountains, sculptures and azuleju panels on the terraces. Just imagine: on September 8, to get rid of diseases and adversities, pilgrims climb this staircase to the church on their knees.
The Baroque temple on the hill was built a hundred years earlier than the stairs — in the 18th century. Framed windows, carved rosettes, stained glass windows, azuleju — a very beautiful sanctuary. And the view of the 600-meter mountain on which it is located-wow!
On the other side of the square leading to the Church of Our Lady, there is a medieval Cathedral (Catedral de Lamego). The construction of the fortress church began in the 12th century, but in the 16th and 18th it was significantly updated. If painted azulejus on walls are the norm in Portugal, then frescoes are rare — be sure to look up to see them. Then take a look at the monastery courtyard to the left of the entrance.
Walk to the medieval Castle (Castelo de Lamego) through the Figos Gate (Núcleo Arqueológico Porta dos Figos) it’s also a mandatory program. The walls of the fortress offer a beautiful view of the city.
Do you want to see the oldest chapel in the country? It’s better to drive up to it. San Pedro de Balsemão (Capela de São Pedro de Balsemão) was built in the 7th century. However, part of the facade appeared here 10 centuries later.
And you should also get to the cellars of Caves da Raposeira. The first Portuguese sparkling wine has been produced here since the end of the 19th century.
There are so many beautiful places in this country! I recommend visiting for at least two weeks — you can find a lot of travel ideas on my page.